I stopped wearing wired bras sometime last year when I was totally fed up of being stabbed by wires and just feeling utterly MEH with them.
I had shopped around a lot and found no decent supportive wire free bras that were good for my mahoosive bangers. It wasn’t until I found Lucky Sew and Sew that I realised that wire free bras were possible and could be utterly beautiful at the same time. She made me a bra that fitted me perfectly and was so super cool that I flash it off every chance I get. Here I am wearing it in my painted romper photo shoot.
I totally support (!) you making an investment and buying at least one custom-made bra as it will change your life forever, and your boobs will thank you. I have two and they are just amazing.
So onto making your own. I as you know went through all my clothes recently and totally cut up some of my tattier wire ridden bras and set aside all the components I could use again to make my own bra.
I am going to have a think what I can do with the wires… Maybe wrap in yarn and add to a weave? Hmm. That is for another day.
- Tin Foil
- Good Fitting Bra
- Scrap Paper
- Measuring Tape
- Stretch Fabric
- Sewing machine/overlocker
Take your bra and lay it out on a flat surface – If it has a few seams on the main cup lay it so that one of the pieces can be seen fully – I am using a sports bra as my base – and am going to copy the lower cup piece first:
Place some foil over the cup and smooth it out – pinching along the seams – repeat on another piece of foil for each of the components. I have two cup pieces and a side/back piece
Cut all the pieces out and they should look similar to this – trace onto your paper and label each piece.
At this point it is a good idea to pop the cup pieces onto a stand or check on yourself. My sports bra is quite high and not that fashion-y so I’ve reshaped my pattern pieces to be lower at the centre front, and shaped along the top edge of the side piece as I don’t want my straps to look like my bra at the moment.
make a mark on your pattern piece for where you want the straps to go, and go on and draw on your seam allowance around each piece. 1cm is a good seam depth.
Go ahead and cut out your pattern pieces – remember you need to cut two in mirror of each piece.
Sew your top and bottom cup together – right sides together slowly and carefully easing the two together – check the fit and make any adjustments to the top edge if needed
Now attach the back piece at the cup outer side edge; and sew the two bra sides together at the centre front. Check the fit again.
I’m not going to have adjusters on my bra as I’m making it very simply with just an elastic underband that will go all the way around so I can slip on and off – so I will sew my back pieces together now.
If you are adding any cage detail or extra straps now is the time to play around. I’m keeping mine super simple with just two straps.
Measure your underbust and cut your elastic about 1 inch shorter. Sew the short ends together with your overlocker or going over a few times with a zig-zag stitch to secure.
Now your are ready to attach the underband – (right sides toghether) stretch on the elastic as you sew – again use your overlocker or a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine. Once attached – top stitch the seam with a narrow 3 step zig zag stitch to finish it nicely
Check how long your straps are going to be – and prepare accordingly – now you are ready sew them on. Check the position against the marks you made on the pattern and pin on – see photo below. Sew on with your overlocker all the way around (or with a zig zag stitch) and then turn the hem toward the inside and stitch in place using a zig zag stitch. My machine decided to eat my fabric whilst I was sewing the last bits off so my bra has stretched along the top edge 😦 I’m going to add some binding to fix it later!)
Get your sass on and revel in your new wire free handmade bra – go ahead have a play and see what you come up with!
Don’t forget to share your creations with us on Instagram with the hashtag #whatawastecollective